Oligopeptides have attracted extensive interest since its discovery by du Vigneau and Tuppy more half a century ago. Bioactive peptides, either naturally occurring or synthesized, have demonstrate numerous advantages in therapeutics due to their ease and unlimited ways of modifications. The opportunity to generate various peptide analogues through specific amino acid substitutions and alterations allows for precise regulation of potency, solubility, toxicity, and cost of potential therapies. By modifying N- and C-termini via acetylation, glycosylation and amidation, or replacing L-amino acid with D-amino acids and cyclization, the half-life of peptides can be optimized. By adding functional groups on N- and C-termini, the hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity can be optimized for transdermal delivery and absorption. By linking covalently to lipophilic molecules such as N-isobutyloxycarbonyl and N-octyloxycarbonyl, we can prevent enzymatic degradation and increase concentration of oligopeptides at active sites.
Mechanism of bioactive oligopeptides in skin health
• Stimulating collagen synthesis
• Modulating elastin homeostasis
• Modifying melanin metabolism and skin pigmentation
Collagen
Collagen is the most abundant connective material within the dermis. About one quarter of the human body is collagen. It is a fiberous protein whose primary function is to maintain skin firmness. Collagen fibers support the skin’s mechanical strength and texture. Because it has a mechanical function, collagen is subject to wear and tear. The quantity and quality of skin collagen plays a major role in appearance.
Elastin
Elastin forms crosslinks with collagen and maintains the structural integrity of the dermis and regulates various biological processes within the dermal ECM. Elastic fibres are responsible for the elastic recoil and resilience of the skin. Natural aging and excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light cause degeneration of the elastin fibre.
Melanin
Melanin is a pigmented heteropolymer synthesized by melanocytes. Skin color is determined by the concentration and distribution of melanin within keratinocytes. One of the principal functions of melanin is to protect the skin from UV light, a major causative factor in the development of skin cancer. There is substantial evidence that melanin protects the epidermal layer from UV rays that damage nuclear DNA and also neutralizes reactive oxidative species (ROS) that damage cellular DNA, proteins and lipids. Currently, skin cancer is the fastest growing of all human cancers. Particularly, the incidence of malignant melanoma, the most deadly and aggressive type of skin cancer, continues to increase at an alarming rate.
Disclaimer
Information on this website is summarized from published literatures for education purpose only. All molecular structures listed are for example purposes but not meant to be used as ingredients in cosmetic products.
For regulatory policy of each molecule and its use for cosmetic product, please refer to the released information of FDA or your local government. All information is provided for informational and marketing purposes only.